When MB told me the folks from Soho's Sullivan St. Bakery had landed in Chelsea, I was thrilled. I used to go to Sullivan on a regular basis to lunch on a couple of slices of the thin-crust, yuppy pizzas (think delicate potato, onion and rosemary, simple but divine margaritas, etc.) back when I worked in that hood. Remembering how delightful those 'zas were, I was sure Co. had to be just as good—DY and JC, who live just a couple of blocks away, assured me it was. So off we went ...
Co.'s Popeye pizza was the best of the lot. Sprinkled generously with sea salt and black pepper, the pie had a healthy crowning of fresh spinach and garlic atop a trio of cheeses—pecorino, gruyère and buffalo mozzarella. The crust had a pretty good combo of blistering crunch and soft chewiness.
The meatball pie toppings were really tasty—buffalo mozzarella, tomato, caramelized onions, gaeta olives, veal meatballs, aged pecorino and oregano. Sadly, the crust didn't measure up. Burned in parts and yet still not crispy, dense and heavy throughout. JC and DY both said they've had better at Co. A misstep with this particular pie? Perhaps.
Hmmm, more likely a new cook in the kitchen who didn't know how to work the dough or the 700-degree wood-burning oven for that matter. The boscaiola pork sausage pizza was the least successful in that the liquid from the mushrooms, onions and tomatoes pooled in the center, making this a soggy pie. And the crust itself was a bit heavy and dense, just like the meatball pie's was.
Ah well, the Popeye pizza saved this visit for me. Next time, I think I'll just go straight to the source and pick up a slice or 2 to go at Sullivan St. Bakery.
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