Dinner—a Korean BBQ kinda dinner—just isn't complete without a whole lotta ssam. I had to ask for it the last time I was stuffing my face with spicy pork bulgogi and sundubu jjigae—in mid-stuff of maybe my third bite, I realized something was wrong, terribly wrong. Where's the leafy lettuce and the dwenjang (soybean paste), for crying out loud? These are integral to being able to create a proper Korean burrito of rice, grilled meat and maybe a bit o' pickled this or that. Look at how dark the dwenjang is in this pic. My folks and aunt all gave the nod of approval for its authentic appearance and taste. I can take it or leave it, but this time, I took ... slapping gobs of the fermented stuff into my wraps. Makes me think about Ssam Bar in New York; too bad that idea didn't "take" too well. It's still around, but has now expanded its menu beyond ssam and its Berkshire pork buns to appease the finicky East Villagers (of which I was one, not so long ago ...).